Swat is the most accessible of the northern valleys, with motorway for much of the approach to Mingora. From there the road follows the Swat river upstream through Fatehpur, Madyan and Bahrain, where wooden hotels are built out over the water and the temperature drops with every kilometre. Kalam sits at the confluence of the Ushu and Utror rivers and serves as the base for the country above it, including the Ushu cedar forest and the track towards Mahodand Lake. How far that track is passable depends on the season and recent weather. Malam Jabba on the ridge above the valley is the country’s main ski area. Darwesh Travels runs a 3 day Swat Kalam tour.