The Neelum Valley in Azad Jammu and Kashmir is a single road following a single river north from Muzaffarabad. It runs past Nauseri and Kutton to Keran, where the far bank of the river is the Line of Control, then through Athmuqam to Sharda. Above Sharda the valley narrows towards Kel, from where a chairlift and a steep trail climb to Arang Kel, a meadow village on a shelf with wooden houses and grazing land. The road ends at Taobat. The valley is lower, greener and wetter than the Gilgit-Baltistan routes. Original CNIC is checked at several points and photography is restricted in places. Darwesh Travels runs 3, 4 and 5 day Kashmir tours.